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An Invitation to an Amazing Oaxacan Adventure

Friday, September 14, 2018

March Creative Retreat in Oaxaca



2019 Oaxaca Tour & Creative Retreat - 

Friday March 8 - Sunday March 17   2019

The tour I've always wanted to do where we explore Oaxaca visiting ancient ruins, indigenous markets, Colonial & Baroque churches, stunning natural settings, & incredibly talented folk artists while leaving plenty of time to connect with place through drawing, writing & otherncreative pursuits.  We'll make time each day on our outings to stop, slow down and write, journal, photograph, and make music or whatever way you choose to record the moment.  There is no teacher - think of it as a creative residency/traveling circus/tour  with a group of like minded, self directed, inquisitive creative types - a chance to dive deeper into the culture through creative expression and self reflection. 
Plus we'll meet wonderful people and eat great meals! 


$2,095 (based on double occupancy)
 includes all meals, lodging, transportation, guides& entrance fees in Oaxaca.  Does not include airfaire, personal shopping, alcohol, & optional tipping.
Singles or couples both welcome and we can pair you up with a roomate if you want.


Friday March 8th - We'll get settled and gather in the evening at the enchanting Casa Colonial, our art filled home away from home. We'll have a light meal and do introductions and share our creative goals for the trip.



Saturday March 9 -After a lovely home cooked breakfast full of fresh fruits and local dishes we will begin at the beginning and head up to the magnificent ruins of Mt Alban with our wonderful guide, Pablo Gonzales.  Mt Alban was built to be close to the gods and we'll have time to explore and contemplate civilization and all it brings us.  Home cooked meal back at the Casa. A stroll into town visiting patron saints, my favorite artisan co-ops and hole in the wall galleries followed by a rooftop welcome dinner in town.


Sunday March 10 - Up bright and early and off with Pablo to explore one of the longest running farmer's markets in the America's where people have come to buy, sell, trade, and socialize for centuries. Get your fortune read by a canary, try prehispanic drinks, listen to a local band and find yourself the perfect embroidered apron. Plus we'll visit the recently restored Silver Church, rightly considered a Baroque masterpiece and very much a site of pilgrimage and prayer today . Lunch will be goat barbacoa at a market stall and then we'll head to  the ancient architectural wonder of Mitla where the likes of DH Lawrence and Josef and Annie Albers all found inspiration. Light meal at the Casa upon our return.The last time I was at Mitla, a big feather fell down from the sky right in front of me!!



Monday March 11th - We'll have a chance in the morning to share our journals or whatever we have been working on and offer thoughts and critiques.  Then off to San Augustin Etla where we'll visit a completely green and sustainable papermaking factory (perhaps factory is a little exaggeration - it's an indoor, outdoor, two room operation) and also an old textile mill recently restored into an arts center with galleries and workshops. On our way home we'll stop and visit with a local artist and activist who lives in Etla and find out more about her project connecting art and immigration. Light dinner at the Casa



Tuesday March 12th - Today we dive deep into textiles and all things weaving and rugs.  We'll head off to the famous weaving town of Teotitlan and visit with a local family who will show us how all members of the family work to card, spin, dye, and weave rugs of tremendous beauty. Plus a chance to purchase directly from the makers. (sidenote: I'm always sure I don't need a rug when I enter and I leave wondering if I can fit them all in my suitcase) After our demonstration, we'll enjoy a home cooked meal of mole made by the grandmother of the family.  And no visit to Teo is complete without a stop in their old and beautiful church where prehispanic and catholic beliefs are practiced side by side.  One of my favorite churches in all of Oaxaca. Light dinner at the Casa.



Wednesday March 13 - Morning sharing and chance to relax and work on our creative projects. Afternoon we'll head into town and visit the Tamayo museum, taste a little mezcal, plus dancing in the Zocalo and a pizza, kombucha,and salads at my favorite Oaxacan hipster restaurant.


Thursday March 14th - A full day out into the countryside with Pablo to visit the tiny but charming local market of Zaachila best known for it's animal market and the ancient ruins where we'll climb down into the earth to visit with winged gods. Plus a chance to visit with the famous alebrije makers, carvers of mythical animals. Then off to a Dominican Monastery with old murals and crumbling towers and a magnificent view. Dinner featuring a 7 course tasting menu at the NYT raviewed El Criollo.


Friday March 15th - The morning finds us out in the famous black pottery town where we'll visit with a very talented family of potters.  We'll see the whole process from handling the clay to final firing and burnishing much like their ancestors did 1,500 years ago. And a visit to the Folk Art Museum. Back in town for the afternoon we'll visit the artisan's market where you can buy silver earrings, leather and tin work, textiles and more plus a visit to the  world class textile museum and time in the zocalo.


Saturday March 16th - a free day where we can arrange cooking class, horseback riding, massage, or use the time for last minute shopping and exploring.  Late afternoon we'll gather for a final sharing of our projects and a magnificent final fiesta in the outdoor gardens of the casa.

Sunday March 17th - Happy St Patrick's Day & on your way home or to your next destination

ABOUT ME


I first traveled to Mexico & Guatemala in 1979 on a wanderlust/walkabout during my college years. Since then I've concentrated my travels on the Yucatan Peninsula, Chiapas,  & Oaxaca and leading tours to Oaxaca since 2011.  I like gathering together and traveling with packs of inquisitive and engaged, creative people.  I like putting our tourist dollars directly into the hands of local people. I like taking it slow. I like going deep and wide. Good food is important. I like seeing what happens when people from different parts of the world encounter one another. I like being part of a bridge between my country and our neighbors to the south.  When I'm not otherwise obsessed with all things Mexico, I can be found watering plants, birdwatching, swimming and making art in Eugene, Oregon. 

Trip Details -
$2,095 includes pretty much everything (lodging, transportation, meals, guides, entrance fees, etc) Not included is airfare, personal shopping, alcohol, laundry, and tipping, which is totally optional but recommended. All deposits and payments are non refundable so we ask that you be committed to this trip and recommend trip insurance.  Single supplement is additonal $395  Email me or use the contact form to the right of the blog for additional information about deposits and further details and questions you might have -  jewel.murphy@gmail.com


Sunday, September 2, 2018

Art Retreat With Rogene Manas



Announcing our dates for 2019!

March 22-31, 2019

Join artist  Rogene Manas (author of Artful Paper Clay) and cultural curator Jewel Murphy for 
10 Days/9 nights
of art making and touring and digging deep into the cultural riches of
 Oaxaca, the creative center of Mexico.
Cost is $2,195 and includes ALL instruction, lodging, meals, transportation and guides.
$395 additional for single supplement 

What makes this tour special?

• A small group of like minded creative people (max 10)
• A focus on art and art making in one of the culturally richest areas of Mexico
• An opportunity to study closely with Rogene MaƱas and learn her mixed media techniques, 
• Private visits with sculptors, painters, and printmakers in their home studios 
• Spectacular meals at some of Oaxaca's best restaurants (no skimping here - we take food very seriously and want to make sure you experience everything from street food to homecooked comfort food to  four star dining)
Plus an unusual, inspiring, soulful, and art-filled home away from home  to make art, enjoy Oaxacan cooking, socialize, have fun, meet new friends and rejuvenate. 

The Itinerary -
Our days (unless otherwise noted) will be spent making art in the mornings and exploring the museums,stores, galleries, churches, restaurants and historic areas of Oaxaca in the afternoons and  evenings. Plus we'll visit with local folk artists, indigenous craftspeople, and contemporary artists. While  many of our evening meals will be at our bed and breakfast ,you always have the option to explore other dining scenes on your own. In addition, the light filled art studio will be open most hours for you to work outside class time. We intend this to be an inspiring, rejuvenating, soul nourishing exploration with a group of creatives. 


Friday March 22nd - Today we'll gather at our home away from home and get settled.  We'll arrange to pick you up at the airport and have a light meal for you upon arrival

Saturday March 23rd - Art making in the morning followed by a  homecooked meal at the Casa.  Afternoon outing to explore the town and visit  the Church of Soledad (the patron saint of Oaxaca), Beber Jimenez Museum, our two favorite artisan co-ops and enjoy a fabulous welcome meal and rooftop dining at one of Oaxaca's best restaurants.

Sunday March 24th - Art making in the morning followed by the best Sunday brunch in the City at one of Oaxaca's finest followed by visits to the world class Textile Museum and San Pablo Cultural Center and time in the wonderful zocalo. Dinner at the Casa

Monday March 25th - Morning art making and lunch at the Casa. Afternoon visits to the 20 November Market including stops at the chocolate grinders, the Hall of Smoke, the grasshopper vendors and more. This bustling city market is so alluring.  Find chilies, incense, pinata's, handicrafts, whatever your heart desires. Dinner at the Casa 

Tuesday March 26th - Morning art making followed by picnic lunch at San Augustin Cultural Center and visit to a local papermaking factory in the village of Etla. Dinner at NYT rated and one of my favorite restaurants in Oaxaca El Criollo (meaning Homegrown) where we'll enjoy a 7 course tasting menu.

Wednesday March 27th - Today we'll switch it up and leave in the morning to visit the studio of Oaxacan artist Enrique Flores . Senor Flores has a studio and gallery in his hometown of Huitzo, about an hour from the city.  I've long admired his work and can't wait for this studio tour.  This evening dinner features a tasting menu of food from the Isthmus in the delightful gardens of La Teca.





Thursday March 28 - Art making in the morning followed by lunch at the Casa and a lovely afternoon stroll into town. A visit to the Rufino Tamayo Museum, collective printmaking studios, and galleries that may include day drinking and mezcal. Get a feel for the richness and diversity of art in Oaxaca.

Friday March 29th  -  A full day of folk art and  touring.  We'll start at  the indigenous market in Ocotlan and  taste prehispanic fermented drinks, have our fortunes told by a canary, peruse leather belts, wooden combs, machetes, horse saddles, and shop for the popular Mexican peasant blouses and maybe find the famous chile de agua.  On the way back visit makers of the  alebrijes, the mythical carved animals and stop in San Bartolo Coyotopec where we'll have a demonstration of making the black pottery the town is famous for. It's a chance to see a thousand year old craft in action. Dinner will be at the Casa.

Saturday March 30th - Our final day and you're free to explore on your own, go shopping or finish up your final art projects. And we can arrange a trip to Mt Alban, horseback riding in the country, a cooking class, a massage and temazcal, or whatever your heart desires. Then an early evening Fiesta at the Casa featuring live music in the gardens and outdoor dining.

Sunday March 31 - Time to pack your bags  and  bid farewell - If needed we'll arrange airport transport. 

About Rogene -


Rogene will be teaching her 3rd workshop in Oaxaca - These workshops are designed for people of all skill levels who want to work with mixed media. This year our art making will take inspiration from the rich textile and paper mache making traditions of Oaxaca.  We'll make saint cards, mildagros, prayer flags and cloth and clay dolls. At the end of our time we have a small exhibition of our work at the Casa.


Rogene has been making mixed media art full time since retiring from her international card company 10 years ago. Her new book, "Artful Paper Clay" is all about a process she developed in her never ending search to find fun and forgiving ways to make art.She has been teaching mixed media workshops in Oregon, Washington, California, and Mexico for the last 9 years. Here work has been greatly influenced by her love of the folk art of Latin America and from spending winters in Mexico. Visit her website www.rogene.manas.com for more 

About Me 


I first traveled to Mexico & Guatemala in 1979 on a wanderlust/walkabout during my college years. Since then I've concentrated my travels on the Yucatan Peninsula, Chiapas,  & Oaxaca and leading tours to Oaxaca since 2011.  I like gathering together and traveling with packs of inquisitive and engaged, creative people.  I like putting our tourist dollars directly into the hands of local people. I like taking it slow. And I like to eat good food. I like seeing what happens when people from different parts of the world encounter one another. I like building a bridge between my country and our neighbors to the south.  When I'm not otherwise obsessed with all things Mexico, I can be found watering plants, birdwatching, swimming and making art in Eugene, Oregon. 

Trip Details -
$2,195 includes pretty much everything (lodging, transportation, meals, guides, entrance fees, etc) Not included is airfare, personal shopping, alcohol, laundry, and tipping, which is totally optional but recommended. All deposits and payments are non refundable so we ask that you be committed to this trip.  Email me or use the contact form to the right of the blog for additional information about deposits and further details and questions you might have. jewel.murphy@gmail.com





How Many of these Latinx Writers Have you Heard Of


I'm a book lover and consider myself fairly well read.  And I remember the first time I went into a bookstore in Mexico and realized I didn't recognize any of the authors, not one. There is such a great wealth of Latin American literature that we in the States miss out on and it's not just Gabriel Garcia Marquez and Octavio Paz.


In fact, the oldest library in the New World can be found in Mexico in Puebla.  And if you're a book lover in Oaxaca there are a couple of places worth noting. Amate books is the go to English language bookstore in Oaxaca where you'll find a very good selection of books on Oaxaca, Mexico, art, and politics plus a fine wall of masks.  The Botanical Gardens behind Santa Domingo have an extensive library devoted to all things (you guessed it) botanical. And then IAGO, the graphic arts institute across the street from Santa Domingo has an extensive collection of art books and makes a fine spot to while away some time perusing art books and drinking coffee in their charming courtyard.  Plus in Santa Domingo proper there's an old library worth visiting just for the visuals - loads of old parchment books housed in wire covered cabinets. Also of note is the not english language bookstore at the south end of the Alcala called Libreria Educal.  It's a nice store and also has postcards and CD's all in Spanish. Also worth noting, because it can be confusing, is that most books in bookstores will still be covered with plastic and you can't paw through them.  Typically one asks the store owner if you can look at the book and they'll take the plastic off for you. At least that's how I think it works. No one has ever refused to open a book for me and I don't think there has been the expectation to buy it.

Here's a link to an alternative reading list.....a Latinx literary canon. As per usual, I had not heard of any of the writers, because we of the United States persuasion are so incredibly uneducated about the wealth of Latin American writing. Let me know in the comments if there are Latin American writers you like.

http://remezcla.com/lists/culture/latin-american-books-literary-canon/?rfb

Tuesday, August 14, 2018

Why were the BeatlesOnce Banned in Mexico


They absolutely love the Beatles in Mexico. In fact, they've dedicated a whole day in Mexico City where people dress up in Beatles attire otherwise known as Beatles Look Alike Day. And they say the Beatles are played more in Mexico than anywhere else in the world.  I remember being in a church up in Ixtlan in northern Oaxaca chatting with some young band members who were giving a concert that day. They wanted me to know that they didn't just play church music - they played Beatles covers as well, and could I tell them what the lyrics to the song Michelle translated to in Spanish.* I mean this was really rural Oaxaca. Pretty sure none of those kids had ever even been to Oaxaca City - going to Ixtlan was the big city for them. But they loved the Beatles.

Still it hasn't always been that way. In the 60's and 70's rock and roll was banned in large swathes of Mexico. The conservative right considered it too decadent, prurient, and a negative influence on young people. And the radical left thought it was too western. "Why would we want to import the colonizer's music when we already have our own strong cultural music traditions?", was the thinking.
Santana was denied a permit to play in Mexico City and nary a Beatles song was found on the airwaves.  But times have changed and globalization is real.  And there's something I love about Mexico meets the Beatles.  I'm going to call it one of the upsides of globalization.  Check out this link for more fun photos -

*The other thing they wanted to ask me was, "Didn't I think their friend looked Chinese?".  Big hilarity ensued when I agreed with them.

The Number One Grain in All of the World


The roots of corn run deep in Oaxaca.  One of the first known cobs of corn was found in a cave less than an hour east of the city. Some say this is the first known cultivation of corn but my research would lead me to conclude that there may have been at least one other hybridization, which has given us what we now know as zea mays, happening concurrently  in the American Southwest. Still I always like to pay homage and take a deep internal bow to that little cave when we drive past on our way to Mitla.

 Indeed corn runs deep in all of Mexico as evidenced by the saying, "sin maiz, no hay paiz" (without corn we have no country). You find it used for everything from food and drink to weaving (as a starch to stiffen string) to children's toys (think corn husk dolls), to used as tools for pottery and, my personal favorite, a cork to hold whatever brew your gourd drinking container might hold. And please remember, that the sweet corn you might eat on fourth of July in the States is completely different from most of what you find in Mexico where the harder and starchier corns reign supreme and are used for tortillas, tamale masa, atole drinks and a host of local food variations.  Also the elote, found on menus of many American hipster restaurants, is NOT what you'll get in Mexico. Elote refers to the time of the year when the dent/meal corn is still very soft and milky. There's a zillion ways to use it from tea, to meal, to ice cream and more.  It's considered a special delicacy by those in the know.

Corn is the most harvested grain in the world and definitely one of the greatest gifts Mexico has given us. As you can imagine, the anti GMO movement is alive and well in Oaxaca.  My postcard image above came from a whole Anti GMO series produced by Franciso Toledo. In Mexico, being anti GMO is considered patriotic.

How I Became an Ally

We all travel for different reasons and travel feeds us all in different ways but without a doubt, for me, one of my favorite parts is having my mind opened to new and different ways of understanding the world.. And I know it's happened to everyone who has traveled, that tiny snippet of a conversation you might have had in a bus station or at a bistro table that has made a lasting impact on your thinking and the way you see the world. . You'll never see that person again and they probably don't remember the moment.  This is one of those stories.



A little over 10 years ago I had this far flung and not particularly carefully crafted idea that I wanted to start organizing tours to Mexico.  Seemed like learning Spanish might be a good first step (:)) so I figured out how to work remotely and was living with a family in the old colonial city of Merida, State of the Yucatan in Mexico and enrolled in a Spanish study course four days a week for a month.

During that trip a friend from Houston flew down for a long weekend.  I went to the airport to meet him and, as is the custom in many small airports in Mexico, we found ourselves heading back to the city center in a collective taxi.  Typically many airports will have a transportation kiosk that gangs people up according to which part of town they're going and then you ride together. Which is exactly how we found ourselves sharing a cab with a lovely woman from Villahermosa and her teenage daughter.


It was the day Pavarotti had died and someone, I can't remember who, brought up news of his death. The woman shared with us that she had seen Pavarotti at the ancient Mayan ruins of Chichen Itza when he performed there in the late 90's!!!  Now I'm not an opera fan, but that must have been pretty amazing. My friend, who IS an opera fan, was even more excited. And, as often happens to me in Mexico, I am happily surprised by the sophistication of the discourse. We talked about music a bit and it was the first time I heard the phrase "musica folklorico" as it might be applied to contemporary music. In short we were what the Mexicans call "platicar"ing….a sort of friendly kind of chatting with people you don't know well.



Eventually the subject came around to what's brought you to Merida. "Oh I'm studying Spanish and my friend is down here visiting.  We're going out to the Gulf Coast to the beach for the weekend. Maybe do a little birdwatching. What about you?"  Well as it turns out she had flown into Merida with her daughter to go to the American consulate to apply for a visa.   Seemed like a long way to come for a visa. "Isn't there a consulate in Villahermosa (that big, bad, hot, humid, oil town I had visited in my 20's)?", I wondered aloud.  Well yes there is, but the lines and the wait are longer and the outcome is uncertain and she thinks she has a better chance of obtaining one from this consulate than the Villahermosa one.  Plus, she tells me, she's in a little bit of a time crunch because her daughter, who is married to an American and lives in Texas, is having a baby and she wants to be there for the birth.  Wants her younger daughter to be there too. It was her first grandchild.  I wished her good luck.


 I'm embarrassed to say that, up until that time, it had never really occurred to me that the only impediment facing a Mexican who wanted to travel to the States were the same ones facing me wanting to travel to Mexico.  Essentially I had always thought that, as long as you had enough money, you could get yourself in. It was only the poor campesino/farmworker who didn't have enough money to get a passport and a ticket that had to "sneak" in.  My, probably more affluent than I,  taximate still had to jump through way way more hoops, face more uncertainties and pay more to visit my country than I do to visit hers.  Check my passport dates and make sure there's enough money to pay for the plane ticket and away I go. Here was a woman of considerable means, well at least enough disposable income to wrangle a ticket to see Pavarotti, and still having troubles.  Her crime?  Wanting to be at the birth of her first grandchild. I guess you could say I got woke to the lopsided rules about visiting between our two countries. I think it's what is known as a double standard. I really consider this encounter one of the first I had that put me on the path to wanting to learn more about our immigration system and how we can right it. And I always wonder how my Pavarotti friend is doing visiting her grandchildren in the states.

Wednesday, July 4, 2018

My October Tour and the Land of This is Not Normal

- Plants and Animals - Seed Necklaces purchased on the streets of Oaxaca and handyed rug from Josefina Lopez - they use a local plant huizache for that gorgeous black and pomegranate bark for the browns.


I was thinking this was going to be a post about how thrilled I am that my October Artisans, Markets, & Village tour is totally full.  And all women signed up. I did not plan it that way.  It just happened so it  must be meant to be!! I'm going to have a great group of chefs,  historians, activists, and artists to travel with.That's code for we're mostly a group of retired women who are doing exactly what we want. 
But instead this is more of a post about the family separations happening and how I feel so woke to the need for all of us to step up and do what we can to uphold the best that this country has to offer in the face of the looming potential for the rising fascism and racism we see all around us . I don't think my concerns are exaggerated. I think this administration has shown us exactly what they are capable of - which is to say they are capable of anything. So as the saying goes, "My page, my politics" and you might find my charming little art/travel blog veering off into the realm of peace and social justice. I'm going to use the tiny forum of this blog to speak up for what I believe.
 I've been an "ally" for a long time - it only makes sense really since I've been running these tours to Oaxaca for a while now. In the process I have almost always been received with tremendous respect, thoughtfulness, and grace when traveling. Fewer things give me more pleasure than watching someone have their heart and soul opened to the wonders of this ancient land. Mexico and her people have been so good to me.  I'd like my nation to return the favor. How about you?