Homemade charcoal in Oaxaca

Here's something beautiful I happened upon at the Ocotlan market - do you see what I see? It's a big old beautiful bag handmade from, I think, commercial rope using a knotless netting technique. The bag is full of homemade charcoal, probably on its way to a mezcal operation somewhere in the hinterlands or maybe for cooking up in the mountains. It's always seemed counter intuitive to me that one would desire wood that's already halfway burned but charcoal burns hotter and cleaner than wood.  Bonus points it's much lighter and thus easier to transport too. So yeah it's not all briquettes for your barbecue.  The art and science of making charcoal is alive and well somewhere deep in Oaxaca.  Here's a link if you'd like to learn more about making charcoal. https://primitivetechnology.wordpress.com/2016/02/19/making-charcoal/

The Ghost of Frida Past

It's always fun to see Frida at her fonda in the Ocotlan market on Fridays.  She's either posing for pictures or busting out the food and her stall - it's almost always busy and with some great live music.

How Many Rugs is too Many Rugs?

I don't have a store, and even when I did, I never had enough time to really sit down with the leisure it would take to buy the goods for retail when I'm out on a tour with a half dozen people who all want to shop.  So don't ask me how I ended up with a rainbow colored rug from Teotitlan de Valle.  Suffice it to say, I was so moved by the deep knowledge displayed in the natural dye demonstration that the mother of the family had just given us,and I loved that it was the eldest daughter, who was just getting old enough to weave, who had made the rug.  Of course I wanted a rug that showed the complete spectrum of natural dyes they were able to acheive in their home studio. In fact, had to have it. Funny how that goes.

Here's my rainbow colored rug in situ with Angelica, the daughter on the left, holding her handiwork with her mother Josefina. Typically Zapotecs pose rather stoically behind their work. They were all set to do that but I asked them to look at each other instead, which made them smile. Such a nice day and I'm so glad I have the rug to remember it all, although I have absolutely zero idea what I am going to do with it.  Currently it's a runner in the middle of my dining room table.

Chile de Agua in Ocotlan Market

Interrupting all things Art tour to bring you this foodie announcement.  There's a new chile in town called chile de aqua, unless you live in Oaxaca where it's been raised for hundreds of years.  I've read about it and I know there's a farm in Eugene growing them because one of their Oaxacan workers brought the seeds up so he could grow his favorite pepper.  So I was thrilled to actually see them for sale in the Ocotlan market.  Read about this heirloom chile and how it came to the American market.