Flowers from Oaxaca

 Agave 

Orchid

                           Water Lily

                                                                           Cactus

From my recent trip in Fall 2016.  Tropical flowers.

In Search of the True Beginnings of the Flowered Apron

Those of you who have been to Oaxaca with me, or those who might have shopped in my store, or read a few entries in this blog, will know that I have a mild obsession with these embroidered aprons that form the traditional dress of many women in Zapotec villages in the Central Valley. Thus, I could not have been more thrilled to visit in the home workshop of a young woman from St Miguel de Valle who is one with her sewing machine and able to bang out all number of embroidered designs on these gingham aprons with their heavily pleated skirts. She tells us that the idea of embroidering peacocks, which now is a common design feature, was her idea (this is what the creative class and innovation looks like Zapotec style).  She's 28 and has been embroidering since she was 14, so about half her life. An average apron takes her about two or three days to make. Here she is above with her mother in law and two very happy tourists modeling their new aprons.

Click here to see some other apron pics and you'll notice that styles have changed and the rufflier apron has replaced the simpler one. 

Street Art Oaxaca

As usual, one doesn't have to go too far in searching for inspiring art in Oaxaca. Never mind the galleries, museums, printmaking collectives, and edgy shops, the streets themselves are full of it. And this isn't Madison Ave. advertising. Although, in fall of 2016 I saw more graffiti than I have in the past and there have recently been annoying incidents of el gobierno painting over some really magnificent street pieces, street art is alive and well in Oaxaca.  

I was sorry to have missed street artists gone gallery darling of the Oaxaca underground, Lapiztola Collective's show at IAGO (the  graphic arts center which is part coffeeshop, part art library, part very cool space). A play on the spanish words for pencil and pistol, these art toting politicos have some hard hitting truths to speak but they remind us that the world is beautiful too.They were literally scraping the work off the walls when I got there. 

For a smattering of past years street art you can go to this FB album by clicking  here -

Village life in Oaxaca

We know it's the 21st century but there is something so heartening knowing people are still living a simple life, growing their crops, tending them, and bringing home the harvest on the back of their burro.  You see it all the time in small pueblas in Oaxaca.

Picture courtesy Jeanette Norris.

Where to Stay in Oaxaca

Our home away from home, the lovely Casa Colonial, a second generation bed and breakfast,

filled with folk art, books, birds,and plants. Oh an people, people too. Interesting people.

I am just back from my most recent tour organizing a bold and curious bunch of folks as we toured the Central Valleys and beyond.  It had been two years since I'd done a tour and had forgotten how truly special Casa Colonial is.

I heard one of our people tell Jane staying at the Casa was like staying at summer camp for adults.

Couldn't agree more. 

 Plus a communal dining experience, filled with lovingly prepared food and enjoyed with a changing array of guests. 

 

Some mornings you'll find artisans coming in from the villages set up in the patio, here to sell and talk to you about their wares. I am always charmed by this.

 

The Casa is just an inspiring, soulful, nurturing oasis of a place to stay in Oaxaca City.  I feel lucky to have found this place and to be able to share the Casa with so many people. Every room at the Casa is a little bit different and my goal is to stay in all of them. So far I've stayed in six. Seven more to go!

Tourism, I noticed on the recent tour in September of 2016, is, once again, taking a big hit because of the teacher's strikes and the flare up that happened in June of this year. It's too bad because all iS tranquil and as inspirational as ever.  

Stay tuned for more tours coming in 2017.

And a good time was had by all.....

We had a most glorious tour and we always end it with a most glorious meal in the courtyard garden of the Casa.  Thank you to everyone who came - you drank it all up in such a good way, Jane Robison and the fantastic staff at the Casa for taking such good care of us, our wonderful guide Pablo and his wife Araceli who share their love of Oaxaca with us, Reed College for making it all happen.  And now another tour or two are in the works because Oaxaca beckons!

The Tour 2016

The Tour 2016

I will, once again, be offering a tour of Oaxaca under the auspices of the Reed College Alumni Association.  (Drumroll and thank you Reed).  The tour will be open to alumni, family, friends, and interested parties.  Details and itinerary as follows:

Oaxaca Oaxaca - A Cultural & Culinary Tour

Sept 23 - Oct 2    2016

 10 days, 9 nights

$2,295 * 

Travel  the unbroken thread of traditions in Oaxaca. Explore the vibrant and cosmopolitan city of Oaxaca and it's happening contemporary art and food scene. Experience indigenous culture past and present.  Visit colonial era churches and monasteries including some of the oldest in the Americas.   The roots of food and culture run deep in Oaxaca and I have picked the best of the best for you.

Highlights include -

-Exploring  three major archaeological sites

-Visits with master weavers, potters, and woodworkers

-Journeys to colonial churches & monasteries

- Trips to indigenous markets, villages, & homes

-Private cooking class

-From Street Food to Four Star -  the best of  Pre Hispanic & Contemporary Dining

-An extremely engaging bi-lingual guide to travel with us outside of the city 

-Small group limited to 10 people 

Itineray is as follows: 

Friday Sept 23 - Gather at Casa Colonial, our lovely home away from home.  Enjoy the lush gardens, the rich folk art collection, and the library packed with books on Mexico and Oaxaca.  Light supper for everyone including those coming in late.

Saturday Sept 24 - After enjoying our breakfast filled with fruits, juices, and Mexican specialties, we're off with out beloved guide Pablo Gonzalez to explore the magnificent ruins of Mt Alban and revel in this hilltop view of the Central Valley. Return for an afternoon lunch at the Casa.  Siesta and free time.  Towards evening we'll stroll downtown for dinner at one of Oaxaca's finest restaurants and enjoy the zocalo and nightlife. There may be some Mezcal tastings involved.

Sunday Sept 25 - Up bright and early for a full day of touring outside the city with Pablo.  We'll head off to the Sunday Market in Tlacolula.  Indigenous people from all over the Central Valleys come to sell, socialize, and do their weekly shopping at this colorful, bustling market, my favorite one in all of Oaxaca.  Strange fruits, live music, and indigenous crafts all add to the merriment.  Plus we'll visit the Silver Church, newly restored and, rightly, considered a Baroque masterpiece. Lunch will be at one of the many delicious Fonda's serving goat barbacoa, a Oaxacan specialty. Late afternoon finds us on  a short excursion to the ruins of Mitla where Pablo will, once again, dazzle you with his vast knowledge of pre-Hispanic history. Late dinner upon our return to the Casa.

Monday Sept 26 - We'll go out to the lovely Rancho Aurora at Seasons of My Heart Cooking School for a cooking class and learn about what makes Oaxacan cooking so special.  This is your chance to find out everything you wanted to know about chiles, moles, mezcals, vanilla, plantains and more.  Practice cooking over a comal, whipping chocolate and tying tamales.  Then we'll all sit down and enjoy the feasts of our labor.  Free time back at the Casa.  You can choose to stay in for dinner or take this free night to explore one of Oaxaca's many fine restaurants.

Tuesday Sept 27 - Free morning with optional outing to Itanoni, a hole in the wall restaurant famous for it's devotion to using heritage corn varieties.  Alice Waters said she had the best tortilla of her life here. At 1 the lovely people from the micro finance lending organization, En Via pick us up and take us to a  village where we visit with local women who teach us about their home based businesses. Learn about the power of microfinance.  See how your tourist dollars contribute.  This tour offers a rare glimpse into village life and is your opportunity to talk politics, business, and anything else that's on your mind with local families.   Light dinner at the Casa upon our return.

Wednesday Sept 28 - Free day to shop and explore, visit museums, markets, and churches, or relax and enjoy the sights and sounds of Oaxaca City and her beautiful zocalo.  We can arrange mezcal tours, cooking classes, horseback riding, massage, or more depending on your inclinations.  Early evening we'll leave to go visit the studios of a local artist and, weather permitting, enjoy a  rooftop meal in town.


Thursday Sept 29 - Today we head out to the Mixteca Alta, a much poorer and drier part of the state that was once home to large indigenous  populations and site of some of the earliest churches and monasteries in  the Americas. This is definitely off the tourist track but well worth it. The magnificent church of Yanhuitlan is our destination with a surprise or two along the way. Old World Spain meets New World Mexico

Friday Sept 30 - A leisurely morning and then off to the town of Teotitlan de Valle, where we'll visit weavers famous for their natural dyes and spectacular designs.  Lunch in Teo and a visit to their beautiful church which blends Catholicism with native traditions. This evening we'll enjoy an eight course meal in a lovely garden featuring dishes from the Isthmus of Tehuantepec.  This might have been my most memorable meal of the last tour.  

Saturday Oct 1 - Our last full day, we have a morning outing to visit master craftsman and potter Lorenzo Mateo Galan and his family at their home studio. Prepare to be mesmerized as you watch him ply his craft much like his ancestors were doing a thousand years ago.  If there is time, we'll visit the folk art museum  Free time in the afternoon to pack, make last minute purchases, and enjoy the beautiful city. We'll end the night with a fantastic farewell fiesta at the Casa.
Sunday Oct 2 - We'll arrange transport to the airport as you head off to your next destination. 

*$2,295 cost of the tour includes shared lodging at our lovely abode, all transportation in Oaxaca including airport transfers, most meals (we've left two times for you to explore dining on your own but all other meals are covered - we'll eat home cooking at the Casa, the best of street food, & at four star restaurants ), all guides, all tours and entrance fees. Cost does not include air transportation to Oaxaca, any personal shopping, laundry,  alcohol, and tips for guides and hotel staff (totally optional).

For more information about our very beautiful and soulful accomodations  go to this link by clicking here.


About Me- Jewel Murphy ('82) - I first traveled to Mexico & Guatemala  in 1979 on a wanderlust/walkabout between my sophomore and junior years at Reed. I eventually graduated in 1982 with a major in fine arts and art history.  Since then I've concentrated my travels  on the Yucatan Peninsula, Chiapas, & Oaxaca.  This will be the fifth tour I've led to Oaxaca.  I like traveling with packs of inquisitive and engaged tourists.  I like putting our tourist dollars directly into the hands of local people. I like taking it slow.  I like seeing what happens when people from different parts of the world encounter one another.  When I'm not otherwise obsessed with all things Mexican, I run a floral shop and lifestyle store in Eugene Oregon called Passionflower.  Should you be drawn to travel with us, feel free to contact me at jewel.murphy@gmail.com with any questions.
 

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